Factory garment board basic knowledge

First, the clothing garment design clothing production design renderings into the structure of the floor plan for the production of clothing samples (production pattern), that is, the design renderings - to determine the size and data - Structural sketch decomposition - to determine the main parts of the cartographic specifications - Flat structure of the net sample - wool sample. In such a pattern design process, the designer must consider how to set a better production pattern in order to make garments to improve quality, reduce costs and improve efficiency, which is also different from the ordinary pattern-making ( For personal and custom clothing). 1, according to the design of the sewing process will be released all the stitching clothing structure map, in addition to the net samples have been a variety of technical parameters and markings, should indicate the sewing methods and requirements; ironing parts and methods; Requirements of the order of the process, for the discharge, to determine the discharge mode and accurate consumption of the production pattern must have the following review: (Men's shirts, for example) â‘ set the size of the review. According to the customer or given the size of the paper samples of various parts of the measurement. â‘¡ on the suture line of the review. Clothing, clothing, clothing and other parts of the interrelated relationship between the production of men's shirts pattern, need to be made in the paper pattern, check the armhole arc and collar arc is round; check the shirt hem and cuff arc is round; check Cui Shan arc Check whether the arc of the cuff is equal to the width of the cuff; check whether the length of the side seam before and after is equal . â‘¢ pairs of the mark of the review. Men's shirt has a front placket affixed flip mark and button door mark; shirt sleeve arm arc and sleeve sleeve arc alignment mark; collar button door mark and front center line alignment mark; Fold mark, etc .; pleated cuffs on the sleeves line marks and so on. â‘£ on the cloth line review. Check the fabric cutting thread used when the thread pattern. â‘¤ check on the seam. Men's shirt production pattern in addition to the placket and sewing bag sewing points (only mouth), the rest are 1CM stitched. â‘¥ review of the total sample size. Men's shirt pattern a total of 11 pieces of paper (including the bottom collar and face collar). â‘¦ review the information is complete. Including the style name, the number of cut, yards, cut pieces of names. 2, the paper has been reviewed after the cut made of clothing, used to test whether the paper has reached the design intent, this paper called the "head plate", the non-confirmed pattern to modify, adjust or even re-design, and then reviewed Become a "complex board" made of clothing, and finally confirmed as clothing production pattern. Second, the paper-like design Need to consider the actual production of clothing fabrics, the use of the process structure, style of clothing, quality requirements. In the clothing design process, due to different styles of clothing; differences in fabric structure and thickness of different; clothing production process and the type of machine restrictions; clothing quality and organizational structure of different, will affect the actual production, and clothing structure Paper production also has different requirements. 1, based on the fabric closely different organizations to determine the different ways of sewing different requirements plus seams. â‘ according to the difference between the thickness of cloth can be divided into three kinds of thin, medium and thick put the amount of sewing, thin fabric clothing put the amount of paper is generally 0,8cm, medium 1cm, thick 1,5cm. (2) Seams with a larger arc should be narrower, such as armhole, collar and socket, etc. Because of the arc problem, the seam will be wrinkled too much, however, the design of the sewing pattern for the production pattern should be as uniform as possible, which is in favor of Improve production efficiency, but also improve product quality standards, so the shirt collar and the nest line put the seam or 1cm, sewing uniform nesting line after the nest is 0,5cm, can make collar nest flat service Avoids stitching due to loose material distribution. Plus plus amount of place to put the slit to be wider, such as trousers after the release of the seam, after the central part of the seam plus 2,5cm, the upper and lower side of the seam can add 1,5cm, etc., can improve the product The sales volume can meet the customer's psychological requirements. â‘¢ different ways of sewing plus the amount of seams have different requirements. Such as flat seam is one of the most commonly used, the easiest way to stitch, the amount of seams put sew is generally 0,8 ~ 1, 2cm, for some more easy to edge, loose cloth sewn in the stack after the stack Commonly used in the lock side 1cm; split seam in the seam after sewing commonly used 1,2 cm. Fold the clothing (skirt hem, cuffs, Kukou, etc.) taken by the seam method, there are two general situations: First, the edge of the seam after the seam, the second is the direct hemming seam. Locked seamed seam plus seams is the required width of the hem, if it is flat pendulum style summer shirt is generally 2 ~ 2,5cm, winter clothing for 2,5 ~ 3,5 cm, pants, suits and skirts generally 3 ~ 4cm, is conducive to the verticality and stability of pants and skirts; if there is a curved shape of the hem and cuffs and other general 0,5 ~ 1cm, and the general needs of the direct hemming on this basis plus 0,8 ~ 1cm folding amount, for a larger round pendulum shirt, trumpet skirts, round skirt skirt edge, as much as possible to make a very narrow hemming, the seam will be rolled up for the seam is the curling seam, rolled into a width of 0,3 ~ 0,5cm, so the side of the seam plus 0,5 ~ 1cm, if it is very thin and strong organizational structure may consider direct locking beads as a margin, but also as a decoration. Jeans side seam, inner seam and back seam machine head seam sewing method is commonly used sewing method, the advantage of this package method is the durability of the stitches added need to pay attention to the front package after the banner or post The amplitude of the front and rear extenders is the rear of the front and the rear of the rear apron. Generally, the stitches are 1 and 2 cm. However, the stitches used in actual production are different. The long-term production of jeans by Huizhou Dajin Co., Ltd. of Hong Kong Rising Sun Group Good way: the package is added to the seam piece 0,6cm, the other piece is 1,6cm. Because the required size is calculated at the edge of the seam, the finished product will not affect the accuracy of the size, consistency. 2, depending on the structure of the production, different production to determine different patterns of clothing production. â‘ Due to the different structure of the sewing process will affect the quality of clothing production, nesting, thus affecting the cost of garment production, so determine the garment production pattern is a very important aspect. For example, the front placket opening with the same appearance effect (front placket opening of men's shirt) has four structural methods to determine the different garment production patterns according to different requirements: if A (single placket placket) and C Ming cylinder placket structure of the sewing process is easy to control the quality of the product, but the structure of C species will produce too thick clothing, so the thick fabric is not suitable for use; if the choice of A and B two kinds of structural sewing process can save cloth, However, the structure of type B will result in uneven thickness of the front placket. If D-type structure sewing technology is selected, the time of cutting and seaming can be reduced and the efficiency can be increased. However, this method can only be used for fabrics with no thickness, The situation, in general, A kind of structure in the general garment production is the most commonly used structure, both can be saved, better quality, but also not subject to the type of cloth restrictions. The placket opening placket, the structure can be divided into additional plus placket and the original plus placket, placket plus the original structure is a waste of fabric, but the sewing process is more simple and convenient; and the other plus the structure of the placket More sewing process sewing process, but the layout should be provincial layout, pattern-making staff need a balanced choice in the drawing, to determine the conditions for their own company's approach. For some similar spoon collar or coat style placket, but also consider the structure in the other placket cut barge to facilitate the rear folding, to save the fabric. The purpose of the sample project is to modify some of the sample structure so that it can beautify the human body, improve quality, reduce workers' handling time, facilitate nesting and material saving. Some structures in the production of materials will result in increased, such as men's shirts, sleeve-shaped swords, cuffs will be made when the paper pattern in which a layer of steal, so that in the Ming line can be avoided when the next Layer exposed, improve product quality, but also to save materials and other benefits; some structure after wearing the product appear unsightly phenomenon, the need to make appropriate changes to the pattern, such as the inside and outside the word pleated skirt pattern, in the production of its When the production of the sample will pleat the upper part of the pilfer-free, can reduce the thickness of the beautification of the body to achieve the effect, but also save the fabric and other benefits. Some structures in production will result in increased workers' handling time, reduced quality and modification of the production patterns so that the above problems can be reduced. For example, for some women with a large difference between the waist circumference and the hip circumference, when making the pants structure (especially the jeans), the curvature of the front side seam will appear to be curved according to the structural principle and the curvature of the side seam will be more straight, The process of adding sewn handle time, the paper side of the front waist plus the appropriate size, the waist in the back of the waist is subtracted from the corresponding size, to achieve the curvature of both sides of the seam is relatively close, so you can make the production more convenient Thus reducing the sewing time.