"Light and fashionable" clothes must have "three piles"

Editor's note: At present, there are three “paradoxes” in China's garment industry during the transition process, and it is directly related to the concept of “brilliant fashion”. Since it is a "paradoxical" issue, it requires both theoretical explanation and practice to confirm it.

At present, there are three "paradoxes" in China's garment industry in the process of transition, and it is directly related to the concept of "brilliant fashion." Since it is a "paradoxical" issue, it requires both theoretical explanation and practice to confirm it.

Culture is the appendage of the garment industry, or the soul of the industry?

——Why does the re-cognition of the cultural identity of the apparel industry mean to “recognize”? Because the cultural personality of the garment industry is the prerequisite for the transformation and upgrading and the way to change.

We use a costume culture to get the recognition of the personality of the garment industry. In the 10 years of the 1980s, China's clothing industry was accompanied by the ideological liberation movement and consciously or unconsciously carried out a costume culture. This costume culture is not surrounded by rural areas, but rather by cities that drive the countryside, starting with major cities such as Beijing and Shanghai. In 1979, Pierre Cardin came to China with a French model. The "Western landscape" aroused people's surprise and thinking. In October 1986, China Fashion Research and Design Center and China Apparel Magazine published the first Chinese fashion trends in Beijing, which caused a strong response. The large and small costume cultural activities that have been carried out successively across the country have come one after another and have promoted the unprecedented situation in which “workers, peasants and soldiers learn from each other and work together” on the land of China. In order to not stop on the superficial articles of clothing, this clothing culture has been introduced in-depth. The China Garments Research Center and the Beijing Textile Industry Bureau jointly initiated the project and carried out special studies on the connotation of clothing. The connotation of clothing was first obtained. The results of the four levels of content are: technical content is 34%; second, art volume is 35%; third, time-effective content is 15%; and fourth, credit content is 16%.

This costume culture has won two major fruits of victory: first, to recognize the cultural personality of the garment industry, to find a development mechanism or development model that takes clothing as a leader (now called the apparel industry chain), the Chinese clothing industry Since then, the pace of the rise has been taken. Second, 1 billion nationals have actively participated in the "color" and replaced the "blue and black" with colorful.

Looking back, this clothing culture is still incomplete, and most of them stay in “knowing the truth”—in recognition of the “culture” of dress culture, they still haven’t recognized “so why”—the gene of Chinese dress culture. "On the root".

In recent years, the industry has been exploring the development ideas of the garment industry from the big to the strong. It is undoubtedly necessary to use a leading “strong-strong technology, strong brands, strong talents, and strong sustainable development” thinking. The clothing industry chain, which measures the three basic links of clothing, clothing, and clothing, measures clothing culture, consumption channels, and national spending power. It should have the same strong position as the “four strong” in the apparel industry chain. It was blurred in varying degrees.

However, the ambiguity and even neglect of their strong position, especially the cultural personality of the clothing industry, means that the industry lacks souls. The prospect of a missing soul industry is unimaginable.

Is costume design playing with stacked wood or a tree?

——Cognition of Genes Related to Chinese Culture According to my observation, many people in China’s fashion design team have acquired two kinds of diseases: the first kind of superstitious foreigners who imitate Western culture and even boast about the ocean; the second type of superstitious ancients like to Simply equate Chinese elements with Chinese culture.

Objectively speaking, imitation cannot be completely rejected. The problem lies in the fact that many designers have fallen into the muddy cultures of Europe and the United States. Although they have imitated patterns, they are not Chinese characteristics.

It is true that people who hyped Chinese elements and played stacked wood games can also build up a good-looking image. However, they are inadvertently touched. When they touch it, they fall because it has no roots. Of course, many images can be piled up, but more are limited. If we can find the "fine" of Chinese cultural genes, then the essence of the "long history, broad and profound" Chinese culture that hangs on our lips will become "words and things."

Is it because you are applying powder or focusing on healthy life?

- The term "cognitive fashion", which relates to the connotation of fashion, belongs to a neutral concept. It has a positive side, a positive side and a negative side, and a negative side. Of course, under normal circumstances, the mainstream positive. Right now, our country looks dazzled in the market economy, but in reality it is a mixed bag. This is the current impetuous social atmosphere that kidnaps fashion and neutrality. There are many reasons for this state of affairs, including utilitarian and commercial hype. Naturally, we should vigorously advocate fashion products that are both positive and healthy, rich and varied, and full of "work" and "art", that is, high-tech and advanced culture, meet the basic values ​​of the people's lifestyle, and serve the harmonious society and civilization. Mainstream fashion.

The word fashion is also a concept characterized by time. The biggest and most prominent feature of today's information age is high speed, which brings high rhythm and high efficiency, which in turn leads to a high degree of tension in people's living conditions. However, people cannot always be 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and they are nervous and live nervously. We advocate the use of brisk fashion to relax ourselves, because the light and fast stepping into the fashion field is not exactly a physical parameter, but an index of happiness for the pursuit of spiritual life.

Brisk fashion is not just a theoretical issue but an indisputable reality. China's garment industry and upstream textile industries, including the chemical fiber industry, a large number of smart technology workers and entrepreneurs, are pursuing a series of products that are “fine yarn support, thin fabrics, light weight, and high functionality”. The results. In the international arena, the developed countries have long ago locked in the future market, and they are already ahead of our country in the focus of the competition to develop products that are both light and versatile.

In short, frivolity is both an irreversible development requirement of the times and an important symbol of epochal civilization. Liberation has great practical and far-reaching significance in economic development, integration of "workers" and "arts," environmental protection, and social harmony.

According to such a reality, I boldly proposed the concept of “brilliant fashion”. Although I know it is still very thin and fragmented, as long as it is in line with the development trend of the current era, it has operability and there are market demands. As for the theoretical issues, with the constant enrichment of social practices, it will continue to be systematized.

"Blurry fashion" is difficult to define. The light fashion clothing I understand is supported by the "three piles" of practical value, cultural soul and artistic image.

Practical value, represented by the new textile material developed by the “industry” of high-tech, can use two arithmetic expressions: one is to do subtraction – to reduce weight; the other is to do addition – to increase fineness, increase functionality, plus Reducing the use of lightweight, comfortable, healthy and environmentally-friendly multi-functional garments with protective functions, sports functions, and special functions to serve consumers. “The heart of beauty, everyone's love, the heart of love, people are more "The modern concept of consumption.

The cultural soul, through culture, "clothes and transforms" the material of clothing, and "transforms" the clothing of "one side of a silver coin" as Dr. Li Zhengdao puts it. It interprets the temperament of a person and shows the "gentleness of a person".

Art image, this is the outward beautification function of clothing. Of course, consumption is individualized, and aesthetics are also "all beautiful." The typical image of today's Chinese clothing is China's outstanding traditional culture, which blends in with the mainstream fashion of the world. It combines the spirit of Chinese culture with modern style, cheerful self-confidence, and constant awakening of people's life consciousness.