Design guru Givenchy took an era: once complained that fashion is dead

Design Master Givenchy: He took an era

[I love fashion and like to work with these ladies. Nowadays, many designers have omitted the steps of tailoring customers. Haute couture fashion designers should be present to personally try on the clothes and give customers advice]

On March 12, Givenchy officially announced that the founder Hubertde Givenchy (hereinafter referred to as "Gianvian") passed away on March 10, at the age of 91.

Givenchy is an important representative of the French haute couture industry and a gentleman who symbolizes Parisian fashion and elegance for more than half a century. His style has long influenced the fashion industry.

Inductive muse

Givenchy's height is close to 2 meters, he is also a giant in the fashion world. Givenchy designed the costumes for Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy and Grace Kelly, and designed a refined and elegant design. One of the most classic works is Audrey Hepburn's "Little Black Dress" in "Tiffany's Breakfast."

In 2010, Givenchy was interviewed by the British Independent in the last time: “The little black dress is the most difficult design to implement, because you have to make it look as simple as possible.”

The brand was acquired by the French Louis Vuitton Group (LVMH) for $45 million in 1988, but since then, Givenchy has been the designer of the brand until 1995.

Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, said in a statement: " Givenchy is one of the most important designers to bring Paris to the center of fashion in the world after the 1950s. He created a unique character for his fashion brand. Whether it is a solemn evening dress or a daily dress, Givenchy has two rare qualities, innovation and eternity."

ClareWaightKeller, the current designer of the Givenchy brand, also said: "He is not only the most important fashion figure of our time, but also affects fashion designers from generation to generation, and he is the most elegant and attractive man I have ever met. ”

Givenchy was born in a small town called Beauvais north-northwest of Paris. The family is quite rich and the father is the mine owner. Despite the opposition from the family, Givenchy did not hesitate to embark on the fashion industry he loved all his life. He once said: "What I do is one of the most attractive jobs in the fashion industry. I can make others happy with an inspiration."

Givenchy's inspiration touched many people. But Audrey Hepburn, who has been sympathetic to him for more than 40 years. Hepburn once said: " Givenchy created me." Givenchy said: "Herben is my muse."

In the book by Hollywood producer DonaldSpoto, "Enchantment: The Life of Audrey Hepburn," Givenchy said: "There is no living woman in the world who doesn't want to look like aunt." Li Hepburn is as elegant."

Hepburn also said in an interview with the fashion magazine "Vogue": "Only the clothing designed by Givenchy, I feel like I am wearing it. He has far surpassed the high fashion designer, he has shaped the character."

The meeting between the two is also very interesting. At that time, Givenchy heard that a young lady named Hepburn wanted to ask him to design a costume for the film "Love to Paris." He always thought it was Catherine Hepburn, who was more famous at that time.

At first, Givenchy told Hepburn: "I only have 8 people. It is impossible to make 15-20 sets of clothing in such a short period of time." Hepburn responded: "Well, let me see you will show Clothing," recalls Givenchy: "The clothes were still in the preparation stage, but I showed it to her. She said that these clothes are very suitable for the scenes of the train station in the movie. Then I finished the movie. The production of clothing."

Since the costumes became attached, Hepburn only wore the clothes designed by Givenchy after many games, and the latter was also popular because of the popularity of Hepburn. As Givenchy said in his biographies, "I feel very lucky." The friendship between the two also lasted for a lifetime, and Givenchy died in the five squatters when Hepburn died.

Harvest Valencia

Givenchy's design is known for its simplicity and low profile. Even during the prevalence of the fashion world in the 1970s and 1980s, Givenchy did not follow the trend. He attributed this design style to his mentor, the founder of the Balenciaga family, and the Spanish Cristobal Balenciaga.

Valencia is known as the most admired male god of Givenchy. He is a perfectionist, and his degree of perfection in fashion is almost harsh. Like a large number of fashion designers and fashionistas who rushed into Paris in the 1930s, Valencia added to Spain in 1937 and opened the first fashion store in Paris. His first appearance at the Paris Fashion Show was a slam dunk and became the “Pope” of the Paris fashion world.

Givenchy once said: "My teacher has created more than just style, and there are many new professional memories, which are called architects in the high fashion industry."

Recalling that when he first entered the Art Institute of Paris (Ecoledes Beaux-ArtsinParis), Givenchy took his sketchbook to see the sage of his heart, Valencia, who was only sloppy by the words "Valencia plus no one". gone.

It was not until the 1950s that Givenchy chose to go to the United States to develop, and he finally met the Valencianga that was deeply impressed. The two had similar understandings of art, and the concept of design did not coincide, becoming a lifelong friend until Valencia died in 1972.

Givenchy and Valencia added the same, they met for lunch on the second day. Valencia added that he liked the refreshing style of Givenchy design. Although they were more than 30 years old, they did not prevent them from becoming close friends.

In the later life, Valencia added a lot of help to Givenchy, for example, when the factory was needed, Valencia added it to him free of charge. Another time, Balenciaga Givenchy recommended to find a reliable mechanic, because "you have a good idea, and very character, but requires appropriate professional and technical personnel to help you put these into reality." Later, he called two employees from his studio and hoped that they would start working for Givenchy. The two female employees disagreed, and Valencia added: "In a few years, I will sell my stores. You will have a better chance and future with Givenchy." And when Givenchy asked Barron When Sia Gia took over, the latter declined.

Valencia has a secretive action, likes to live in isolation, and is indifferent to the world. This mysterious character also deeply affects Givenchy. Like Valencia, Givenchy also hates fashion magazines, as well as newspaper reports and advertisements.

Givenchy often said: "Valencia plus taught me a lot of things, let me pay attention to the details, for example, sometimes sewing a button in a certain place is superfluous, do not sew, or in some places if a small flower will be stabbed Make the clothes look better. In short, don't take extra details."

Givenchy designed 80% of the costumes for Hepburn, usually black and white, and each one is elegant and refined. When Hepburn appeared in the film "Love in Paris" wearing his white dress, Givenchy received wide international attention. Later, he began to design fashion for Hollywood stars.

Flexible business mind

After graduating from the Paris Art Institute in 1945, he worked as a fashion designer at the JacquesFath and Robert Piguet design studios in Paris. The following year, Givenchy went to the famous LucienLelong studio to work with Lelong's assistants Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior.

In 1947, Givenchy designed clothing for the Italian female designer Elsa Schiapareilli, known as the “surrealist of fashion”. That year he was only 20 years old.

After working in the Schiapareilli design studio for five years, in 1952, Givenchy founded the "Guvinshi Studio" named after himself, known for its innovative elegance. The first outfit he introduced was a sleek flap top with a cotton pleated skirt that was fresh and clear. He named the collection "BettinaGraziani" - the name of a French supermodel at the time. Givenchy's minimalist design style continued into the 1990s. The "Audrey Hepburn" style evening gown also became the most obvious symbol of Givenchy clothing.

Young Givenchy not only has a great talent for art, but also has a very flexible business mind. In 1955, Givenchy made an adventure. He decided to develop a sports women's product line in the United States, and also sold his high-end clothing customization. This decision brought huge profits to Givenchy.

By the 1970s, the authorization of products from the Givenchy brand, including accessories such as belts and sunglasses, had brought huge profits to the company. According to the Los Angeles Times of the year, the Givenchy brand has an annual income of more than $100 million. And Givenchy's later launch of the perfume and menswear product line locked his position as a billionaire.

Of course, Givenchy's biggest commercial success is the design of clothing for Audrey Hepburn. After seeing Hepburn’s film, many women rushed into Givenham’s boutique store to buy clothes worn by Hepburn. Givenchy's first bottle of perfume was introduced in 1957, he was specially tailored for Hepburn, named Givenchy L'Interdit, and Hepburn spoke for the perfume.

This silver-haired hair, blue-eyed, smiley and elegant, fashion-oriented singer who is obsessed with elegant taste always arrives at the studio of George V Avenue in Paris at 7:00 every morning to start his design or fabric selection. . On vacation or on weekends, he returned to his country home in western France, a closed manor built with stones. His home is full of antiques from China, France and the United Kingdom, as well as his own designs. It is said that he likes to collect classical furniture from the artistic style of the Louis XIV era.

In 1995, Givenchy announced his retirement. His last fashion show was packed with the world's top female rich and socialites. Givenchy said at the farewell party: "I love fashion and I like to work with these ladies. Now many designers have omitted the steps of tailoring the customers. The haute couture designer should be present to personally try on the clothes and give Customer advice."

In 2006, when Givenchy organized a retrospective in Valencia, he also complained: "Fashion is dead. Nowadays, fashion houses only rely on selling accessories. Even the fashion boutiques on the Champs Elysées are The name of fashion is actually selling handbags and shoes."

Where are you going?

After Givenchy retired, the British designer John Galliano took over the position of Givenchy designer, but his personal style did not match the consistent elegance of Givenchy. Galliano later transferred to Dior and successfully led Dior to achieve a younger transformation.

The successor to Galliano is another Englishman, Galliano's fellow brother at the Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Alexander McQueen. At the time, the LVMH Group asked McQueen to make 10 series for Givenchy one year. In 1998, McQueen designed her evening gown for the Oscars for the film "Titanic" actress Kate Winslet, which was well received. McQueen has served with Givenchy for five years. When leaving, McQueen declared that Givenchy "limited his creativity." McQueen died in his home at home in 2010.

The designer who joined Givenchy in 2005 was Riccardo Tisci. Under the leadership of Dixi, LVMH has built Givenchy into a more global brand, opening more than 60 stores.

Dixi worked for Givenchy for 12 years and just joined Burberry as a designer in March this year. He is welcomed on social media and knows how to work with opinion leaders and online red. In his time, Givenchy became the brand of "darkness" and "street", "cool and terrible." Although commercial success, this brand style has also been very different from Givenchy's early "French elegance."

According to data provided by investment analyst Bernstein, a financial services company, the Givenchy brand now contributes around 110 million euros a year to the LVMH group. Last year, ClareWaightKeller, a former Chloe brand female designer of the Richemont Group, joined Givenchy. The LVHM Group hopes that she can give this traditional French brand a new vitality.

When all the old luxury brands have begun to turn to youth and attract the so-called “millennials”, will the historical heritage of these brands really end?

In 2014, Givenchy held a personal retrospective at the Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid, paying tribute to the designers and customers who have worked together. For why such a retrospective was held, then curator EloyMartínezdelaPera said: "He (Guvinshi) was the last high-end fashion master in the 1900s."

Now that the gods have passed away, the last high fashion custom master has gone. Hengshan and set creative director Ling Hulei said with emotion to the first financial reporter: "Look at Givenchy's current products, no one will think of the little black dress again."

Fashion columnist Lu Wei also said: "The era of the gods is over. The death of Mr. Givenchy has long been unable to influence the fashion circle or the brand itself, but once again reminds people that the French elegance of the last century is old."

Karl Lagerfeld, who is at the helm of Chanel, is more optimistic. He said: "As long as you don't have to look at haute couture with the glory of more than 50 years ago, it will not die."

Of course, high fashion will never die. As some people have said, Givenchy may have gone to heaven to send Hepburn a little black dress.