Xiao Bian has enjoyed the exquisite silk costumes in ancient dramas. He is delicate and elegant, elegant and elegant. He always thinks that he can own. When he grow up, he only has a slow understanding of silk. Today Xiaobian is with everyone. Explore the Chinese textile giant star, silk. In fact, silk is a specialty of China. Silk is silk (mainly mulberry silk, also includes a small amount of tussah silk and cassava silk) weaving textiles . With the expansion of textile raw materials in modern society, science and technology have become more developed. Textiles that are woven from man-made or natural filament fibers in the warp can be called silk in the broad sense. The working people invented and mass-produced silk products, opening up the first large-scale trade exchanges between the East and West in the history of the world, historically known as the Silk Road . These we can understand from the history textbooks of junior high school. That is, from the Western Han Dynasty, China's silk has been shipped abroad in large numbers and has become a world-famous product. At that time, the road from China to the West was known to the Europeans as the " Silk Road, " and China was also known as the " Silk Kingdom . " Since there are too many stories about silk, Xiaobian now briefly introduces the history and classification of silk. First of all, let's talk about the history of silk. Ancient legend, the Yellow Emperor's wife Ancestor invention "sericulture take silk" [2-3]   However, it is still controversial when real silk was invented. According to archeological findings, experts speculated that in the mid- Neolithic period 560 to 6,000 years ago , China began to raise silkworms, take silk, and weave silk. It is indeed able to explain that the silkworm cocoon was used in the 1926 half of silkworm cocoon found in Xiyin Village, Xiaxian , Shanxi Province . According to archaeologist Li Ji and entomologist Liu Yule, it was determined to be a silkworm cocoon. The oyster shell is about 1.36 centimeters long and about 1.04 centimeters wide . It is a part that is cut off with a sharp blade . Xiyin Village is located in the period of Yangshao (approximately 5600-6000 years ago ), providing people with physical objects to study the origin of silk. In the Hemudu site , people have discovered textile tools that can be used to infer the use of silk at least no later than Liangzhu Culture . The most influential argument that Chinese scientists in 1958, archaeological discoveries, silk fabric dating back 5300 years Dawenkou period. The Shang Dynasty agriculture has made great progress, and the sericulture industry has also formed a certain scale. Although the number of silk fabrics of the Shang Dynasty discovered by archeology was limited, jacquard fabrics have appeared. This shows that the weaving technology at that time has reached a considerable level. During the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, silk and mulberry silk industry was also taken seriously. The development of Nongsang has become an important national policy for rich countries and strong nations. The period of the Qin and Han Dynasties was a period of initial consolidation and development of the feudal society in China. The unification of Qin and the establishment of a centralized system laid the foundation for the prosperity of the Han Dynasty. In the early Han Dynasty, the policy of “cultivation with the people†was implemented, which promoted the rapid economic development. The large-scale government-run silk industry was established, its products mainly meet the needs of the courts and the government; the private silk industry has also made great progress, and some workshops have formed their own product features and popularity. Silk production areas have developed somewhat compared to the Shang and Zhou dynasties. During the Western Han Dynasty, silk production centered on the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River. Since the Eastern Han Dynasty, the southwestern region of Sichuan has become a famous silk product in China. During the period of the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the war continued, the country’s long-term division, and frequent changes in the regime. Intense social turmoil, complex political patterns, sustained ethnic interactions, and extensive international contacts have made silk production difficult to develop, but it has a rich content and diverse appearance. During this period, the north was still the main producing area of ​​silk fabrics. The silk industry in Chengdu, Sichuan Province was always developed. In the Jiangnan region, due to the related policies of the Three Kingdoms Countries , the development of the silk industry had a new improvement, and it was further developed through the operation of the Southern Dynasties. The foundation for the rise of the Jiangnan silk weaving industry after the mid-generation period. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it was the peak of the development of feudal society in China. Generally speaking, the country was strong, economically developed, and commercially prosperous, especially culturally open. This shows that this era has a graceful and inclusive style. The silk industry has also seen an upsurge in development based on this society. At the time, there were three important silk producing areas: the Yellow River basin , mainly Hebei and Henan; the second was Sichuan Batuo area; the west of Jiannan Road and Shannan Road could be zoned into this area; and the third was the southeast area under the Yangtze River. , basically forming a three-strong situation. After the Anshi Disturbance , the importance of the Jiangnan region has been greatly enhanced. In addition, the development of silk in the northwest region is second to none in remote areas and shows strong local characteristics. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of silk production, with unprecedented levels of output, quality and variety. The production organization of silk is divided into three categories: palace handicrafts, rural sideline and independent handicrafts, and the scale is greatly expanded compared with the previous generation. At the same time, the foreign trade of silk has also been greatly developed. Not only has the number of channels of the “Silk Road†increased to three, but the frequency of trade has also been unprecedentedly high. The production and trade of silk made a great contribution to the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, with the advancement of sericulture technology, Chinese silk has had a brief glory. Not only the variety of color of silk has been significantly increased, especially the emergence of three distinctive new varieties of Song Jin, silk and gold fabrics , but also made a great breakthrough in the summary and promotion of sericulture production technology. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, due to the germination and development of capitalism, the production and trade of silk have also undergone major changes: the commercialization of silk production has become increasingly evident, and the overseas trade of silk has developed rapidly. The area along the lake in the southern part of the Suhu Lake has become the most important source of silk. A number of typical silk towns have been developed, and the weaving of the state-run enterprises has also become more mature. At this time, the Chinese silk has developed into the most active period. Saying so much can be regarded as a general history of silk once again, let's talk about the classification of silk: According to the fabric organization , the combination of latitude and longitude lines, processing technology and the performance of the silk surface shape of silk varieties divided into 14 categories. In addition to yarn, Luo, cashmere regardless of flower department, the organization of the land, the vast majority of categories are based on the organization of the ground. Every large type of silk surface can have the performance of (practice, bleaching, dyeing) or flower (weaving, printing). 1 , spinning: the application of plain weave, the use of woven or half-colored weaving process, the latitude and longitude generally do not add blemishes or weak blemishes, silk surface is relatively flat, the nature of the spinning texture is light and strong. 2. 绉 绉 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用 应用. 3 , satin: apply satin tissue , smooth silk surface fabric. 4 , 绫: The use of twill weave or change the twill weave, the surface of the silk fabric was significantly oblique lines. 5. Yarn: The fabric of all or part of the applied yarn is formed by twisting the first and second warp threads with every other weft. 6 , Luo: All or part of the Luo organization of the fabric, from the A, B warp every one or more than three odd weft yarn twisted into, that is, Luo. 7. Velveteen: All use cashmere tissue, the silk surface is fuzz or cashmere fabric. 8 , Jin: The application of satin, twill organization, the pattern of exquisite colorful and colorful yarn-dyed jacquard fabric. 9 , 绡: application of plain or the organization of the thin light through the hole fabric. 10 , it: the application of a variety of organizations and thicker latitude and longitude silk, rich texture, hairy fabrics. 11 , Ge: apply plain weave, twill and its change organization, after the weft sparse, coarse fine weft, thick texture, silk surface is a horizontal woven fabric. 12 , 绨: application of plain weave, filaments for warp, cotton or other yarns for the weft, texture, thicker fabric. 13 , 绢: applied to plain weave, fine texture, smooth, crisp fabrics. 14 , silk: application of plain or change organization, warp and weft intertwined fabric. 15 , 缂 (carved): through the pass (back) of the weft produced by the plain or other tissue special silk fabric. It is mainly divided by the performance of the silk surface: 1 〠Double eyelid : The plain weave is used. After weaving without weir, the weft uses two left and two right strong twisted silk, and the silk surface is a fabric with uniform twist effect. 2 , Qiao Qi : The application of plain weave, latitude and longitude using two left and right strong silk, texture balance light thin, silk surface with yarn eyes and the effect of the fabric. 3 , tourmaline , after the absence of flaws , the use of Bi-line weft ( 20/22Dx3 plus S æ» 1600T/m , and then 20/22D1 , plus Z æ» 1600T/m ), is a fine wrinkled fabric. 4 , Shun 纡 纡 ç» çº¡ 纡 纡 纡 ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» ç» æ» ã€‚ 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。 。. 5 , Taf: The application of plain weave, the first latitude and longitude dyeing, fine texture of crisp cooked fabrics. 6 , electric spinning : mulberry silk (heavy silk) woven plain weave fabric. 7 , thin spinning: the application of mulberry silk weaving, square silk fabric weight 6m/m and below. 8 , silk spinning: Jingwei are using plain silk weaving silk. 9 , cotton silk: warp and weft are used plain silk fabric. 10 , double palace: All or part of the double palace silk fabric. 11 , 疙瘩 : All or part of the use of 疙瘩, bamboo silk, 疙瘩 effect of the fabric. 12, star pattern: Fabric application crepe tissue. 13. Rib: fabric with frivolous bars on one or both sides. 14 , flower line: all or part of the use of color ray line or color line of the fabric. Article 15 : The silk surface presents a fabric with a horizontal stripe pattern. 16 , grid: silk surface shows a grid pattern fabric. 17 , cool: the use of false yarn organization, constitute a yarn-like hollow through the fabric. 18 , dyed: all or part of the use of colored silk fabrics. 19 , double-sided: application of triple organization, both sides have the same type of twill or satin weave fabric. 20 , concave and convex: fabric with embossed pattern. 21 , Yamagata; apply Yamagata or zigzag twill organization, was a significant Yamagata or sawtooth floral fabric. 22 , flowers: jacquard fabrics. 23 , repair flowers: pruned jacquard fabric. 24 , light: pure viscose silk or semi-optical copper ammonia silk fabric. 25 , no light: no pure viscose silk or matte copper silk pure silk. 26 , flash using light super light profiled synthetic filament yarn pure weaving or interweaving, with a glitter effect of the fabric. 27 , light: the use of gold and silver money (aluminum) pure weave or interweave, with a light effect of the fabric. 28 , Health: The use of raw silk weaving, without refining the fabric. 29 , special dye: warp or weft using tie-dye and other special dyeing process, was two-color and tie-dye color effect of the fabric. 30 , printing and pasting: After the silk printing and then weaving fabrics. 31 , brushed: After brushing finishing fabric. 32 , vertical velvet: After finishing velvet fabric. 33 , kimono: The width of the door is less than 40cm , or the entire width of the opening is 40cm below the opening for the processing of kimono products. 34 , large strip: the weft and weft using a large silk plain fabric. 35. Silk: Special plain silk or other tissue made by passing through (back) the weft . , Talk so much, Xiao Bian feel about the knowledge of silk is really too much, so we continue to talk about tomorrow's silk modern development as well as its production process, goodbye tomorrow yo ~
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